Kigali and Butare:
Cities of Commerce and Culture
“Much as in
Rome, Naples or Lisbon, also built on hills, anyone who visits Kigali by car
goes on something like a roller coaster ride…Every circuit seems to have been
studied expressly to include a lookout spot commanding a superb panorama of the
city and the surrounding hills.”
- Jean-Claude Klotchkoff, author
of travel guide Rwanda Today.
Kigali, the capital of Rwanda, is
both a modern business center and a lush garden city, sprawling attractively
over verdant slopes in the very heart of the land of a Thousand Hills. The main
port of entry to Rwanda, Kigali is serviced by a modern airport, and connected
to neighbouring Uganda and Burundi by zippy surfaced roads. It boasts a range of
hotels to suit all tastes and budgets, and a selection of restaurants serving
cuisine from around the globe.
Kigali,
despite concessions to modernity, retains a satisfyingly organic shape and
unpretentious low-rise charm. The compact city center, which surrounds a
busy, colourful
market, is studded with souvenir stalls displaying fine local craftsmanship,
while leafy avenues wind through hilly suburbia, and the atmospheric Muslim
quarter. Safe, and overwhelmingly friendly, Kigali enjoys a temperate
high-altitude climate which belies its tropical location and appearance, and is
centrally located within three hours of most of Rwanda’s tourist sites.
Rwanda’s second city, Butare, situated 135km south of the capital, is
the intellectual and cultural heart of the nation, set a short distance from the
traditional seat of the feudal monarch, and the site of numerous academic
institutions including the country’s largest university. The main road through
this compact and sedate small city is lined with inexpensive but comfortable
hotels and breezy terrace restaurants. On the outskirts of Butare, Rwanda’s
National Museum houses the finest ethnographic collection in East Africa. The
absorbing displays of traditional artifacts, illuminated by turn-of-the-century
monochrome photographs, provide insights into not only Rwanda’s pre-colonial
lifestyles, but also its subsequent development into a modern African state. Within easy day-tripping distance of Butare, the Royal
Palace of Nyanza is an enormous traditionally constructed dome, no longer in
active use, painstakingly maintained as a museum.
