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Nyungwe National Park: Tourist
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Primate and Bird Nirvana
“The
mountains are Africa’s Galapagos Islands – islands enriched by golden
monkeys, gorillas and iridescent sunbirds, by giant lobelias, everlasting
flowers, Ruwenzori turacos and all the questions they raise. They deserve
greater recognition, protection and study than they have received so far.”
- Jonathan Kingdom, renowned
biologist, in his award-winning book Island Africa.
Nyungwe National Park, extending
for almost 1000km2 across the majestic hills of southeast Rwanda, is
the largest ‘island’ of montane forest remaining in East or Central Africa:
a rich and ancient centre
unparalleled biodiversity and natural wonders. Transected by the surfaced road
between Butare and Lake Kivu, Nyungwe and its array of forest inhabitants are
also uniquely accessible to casual visitors.
Approach Nyungwe along the main road, and you will initially be struck by
the forest’s glorious sense of expansiveness; a lush verdant swathe across the
mighty hills that roll like gigantic green waves towards the distant horizon.
Paradoxically, when you follow the walking trails within Nyungwe, it is the
intimacy of the rainforest that most impress: the closed canopy overhead, the
towering trees and delicate ferns that line the steep gorges, the mysterious
calling and rustling of birds and monkeys hidden deep in the greenery.
Recently accorded national park status, Nyungwe is rightly celebrated for
the rich variety of its flora and fauna. At least 200 different types of tree
are found in the forest, along with hundreds of different flowering plants,
including wild begonia, more than 100 species of orchid, and sensational giant
lobelias. Of the large mammals, primates are the most visible, with 13-recorded
species representing 25% of the African primate checklist. Of particular
interest is the Angola colobus – delightfully acrobatic arboreal monkeys that
move in troops of several hundred – and an estimated 500 chimpanzee, often
seen from the forest trails during the rainy season. Other primates likely to be
encountered over the course of a visit are L’Hoest’s monkey, vervet monkey,
olive baboon, grey-cheeked mangabey, and red-tailed monkey.

Home
to more than 275 bird species, Nyungwe is the most important birding site in
Rwanda. Most alluring to ornithologists are 24 Albertine Rift endemics – birds
whose range is restricted to a handful of montane forests between southern
Uganda and northern Burundi – a list that includes the spectacular Ruwenzori
turaco, secretive red-chested alethe, and several iridescent sunbirds. Equally
remarkable are the perpetually honking giant hornbills that crash through the
forest canopy, and the stunning great blue turaco – an outlandishly blue, red
and green bird most often seen gliding from one tree to the next in procession.

Far
from being the sweaty tropical jungle one might expect, Nyungwe lies at
elevation of between 1600m and 2950m, and enjoys an agreeable cool climate. An
extensive network of well-maintained forest trails lead to various waterfalls
and viewing points. A comfortably rustic rest house and perfectly situated
campsite lie alongside the main road, and the reserve can be readily visited as
a day trip from smarter hotels in the towns of Butare and Cyangugu. Nyungwe
does, however, deserve more time: anybody who wants to track chimps and see
several varieties of smaller primate will need two days there – and dedicated
birdwatchers might never want to leave this magical forest!
